Manish Malhotra’s rise to becoming Bollywood’s ultimate designer and fashion maverick was anything but ordinary. Known today for his mass appeal, whether it’s inspiring millions to emulate Urmila Matondkar’s hot pants and knotted tops in Rangeela (1995), or making brides across India dream of wearing a “Manish Malhotra ensemble”, his journey began in a modest Punjabi household in Mumbai. (Image: Instagram)
Born to a family that ran an air-conditioning business, Malhotra was never interested in the trade. As a child, he was captivated by movies – the songs, costumes, and heroines, especially his favourite, Sridevi. With a natural flair for sketching, he joined painting classes in school, joking that he excelled in science only because his diagrams were neat, while mathematics was a disaster. (Image: Instagram)
At Elphinstone College, Malhotra broadened his horizons by watching English films alongside Bollywood. To earn pocket money, he conducted surveys for market research agencies and even modelled for ads like Gold Spot and Close-Up. His curiosity about the world led him to save ₹90,000 and travel to Bangkok and Singapore, a glimpse of the global exposure he always craved. (Image: Instagram)
On returning to Mumbai, Malhotra joined a boutique called Equinox, where he sketched and draped mannequins. In 1987, determined not to join the family business, he hired two tailors and began taking orders. His parents were initially baffled but eventually supportive. Around this time, Ensemble, one of India’s first multi-brand designer stores, opened, but Malhotra lacked the funds to create a collection. With no formal training, missed opportunities at NIFT, and no money to study abroad, he turned to films, convinced that Bollywood costumes needed a fresh perspective. (Image: Instagram)
His early assignments were modest. David Dhawan asked him to style Divya Bharti in 1989, but the film was shelved. He designed for Juhi Chawla in Swarg (1990), but his real breakthrough came when photographer Rakesh Shrestha introduced him to Sridevi. She agreed to a shoot styled by him, opening the doors to Bollywood. (Image: Instagram)
Soon, he was working with Sunny Deol, Chunky Panday, and Sridevi herself. In Gumrah (1993), Sridevi’s embroidered waistcoat paired with black denims stood out in an era dominated by ruffles and satin. (Image: Instagram)
Malhotra admits he had no formal design aesthetic, it was pure imagination. The industry was tough, with bounced cheques and stiff competition from established female designers. Yet, his sketches and rapport with actors won him trust. His work in Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995), where Kajol danced in the rain in a white mini skirt, caught attention. But it was Rangeela (1995) that changed everything. Urmila’s bold, modern looks redefined the Indian heroine, and Malhotra’s designs became iconic. (Image: Instagram)
Rangeela not only transformed Bollywood costume design but also earned Malhotra the first-ever Filmfare Award for Costume Design. It was his turning point, a recognition that validated his unconventional path. From there, his career soared, firmly establishing him as the designer who bridged cinema and fashion. (Image: Instagram)